Infant Mortality

My colleague's two-month-old son recently died.  No cause of death was identified.  Presumably, the boy had been healthy before he suddenly died.

While this would be quite shocking in North America, people here seem to be taking the event in stride.  At least no one has been accused of sorcery, yet...

Regards,
Karl

Sorcery and Justice in PNG

Recently, a women was burned alive in PNG after being accused of sorcery.  I found this story to be interesting in several respects:

1. PNG passed a Sorcery Act in 1971 (fascinating read).  The act is intended to prevent extortion by pretend sorcerers and protect innocent people from false accusations of sorcery.  
2. Murder is punishable by death, yet no one has been hanged in PNG since the Australian Government left.
3. The incident happened in broad daylight in front of hundreds of eyewitnesses and no "suspects" were apprehended
4. In the other high-profile sorcery related killings that were reported in July, no one knows what happened to the 29 people who were accused of killing and eating 7 people. 

Sadly, this story is not surprising.  Belief in sorcery is widespread, even among educated Papua New Guineans.  Rule of law is all but totally non-existant, even in the capital city.  When you mix widspread superstition and ineffective law enforcement, and you start expecting these events to happen.

Regards,
Karl

P.S.  I did find it surpising that the authors of the 1971 Sorcery Act felt compelled reconcile the fact that they were writing laws to govern something that they did not believe in.  See the following excerpt:

Even though this Act may speak as if powers of sorcery really exist (which is necessary if the law is to deal adequately with all the legal problems of sorcery and the traditional belief in the powers of sorcerers), nevertheless nothing in this Act recognizes the existence or effectiveness of powers of sorcery in any factual sense except only for the purpose of, and of proceedings under or by virtue of, this Act, or denies the existence or effectiveness of such powers.

Domestic Violence in PNG

Domestic violence is common practice and culturally accepted in most parts of PNG.  Sexual discrimination, harassment, and violence is not tolerated by the American and Australian companies that work here.  In my own experience, I have not seen any overt violence or discrimination against women.  However, I often wonder about what happens when my PNG colleagues return home from work. 

Do many women accept the traditional subservient role when they get back home?  Do many men mistreat their wives and female relatives?  Unfortunately, I suspect that the answer to both questions is often "yes". 

It is unlikely that I will ever find the true answers to these questions.  Most of my PNG colleagues are not very open about their private lives.  They are especially circumspect about discussing customs that Westerners consider taboo (cannibalism, wife beating, bride price, betel nut chewing, breastfeeding pigs, etc.) with expats.  However, I do occasionally get a sneak peak behind the curtain. 

One of my male PNG colleagues was recently stabbed during a domestic dispute.   His wife and her relatives are were banned from compound that he was living in.  He hasn't talked about the incident at work, but one cannot help but wonder why his wife would resort to such extreme violence...

First Impressions

"We are not as fat as some other pacific islanders."

- My PNG tax advsor, extolling the virtues of Papua New Guineans

I moved to Papua New Guinea on September 11, 2012.  So far, my travels within PNG have been confined to Port Moresby and the immediate surrounding area.

By all accounts, Port Moresby is the armpit of PNG.  The city consistently ranks as one of the top ten "least livable" cities in the world.  And at first glance, the city's reputation for filth, poverty, crime, lawlessness, and corruption appears to be well deserved. 

Electric fences, barbed wire, and armed guards are the norm here in Port Moresby - for those that can afford it.  I would hazard a guess that the average going rate for a secure, modern, western style 2 bed/bath apartment is anywhere between $5,000-$12,000 per month. 

Meanwhile, according to the World Bank, PNG's per capita income is $1300 a year.  Port Moresby, in particular, has an unemployment rate that has been guestimated at 60-90%.  Consequently, most people who are not expats, politicians, or business owners cannot afford many of the things that most people in OECD countries take for granted. 

The one exception is food.  Despite the poverty, most people seem to be relatively well fed.  Locally grown agricultural products are just about the only relatively cheap commodities. 

Outside the secure compounds, small shanty towns seem to spring up nearly everywhere in Port Moresby.  These shanty towns are generally made up of small huts, wooden frames with walls ceilings made from plastic tarps, corrugated steel sheets, or thatched with palm fronds.  Most of these people do not have access to electricity or running water in their homes.  I would be surprised if they had access to clean water nearby. 

As far as I can tell there are no recycling centers in PNG.  There does not appear to be systematic public trash collection either.  As a result, there is trash everywhere.  It is not just plastic, betel nut, and red spittle that litters the sidewalks.  Even rotting dead dogs lie undisturbed on the city streets. 

Despite all of the garbage in the city, it seems as if much of it eventually makes it out to Sea.  It is not uncommon to see tons of garbage and oil slicks in the harbor. 

As for the crime, lawlessness, and corruption piece of the reputation, I have heard many stories from others.  However, given my sheltered life, I do not directly experience these issues on a daily basis.  I will relate some of these stories/indirect observations in other entries. 

In conclusion, Port Moresby has (unfortunately) lived up to expectations.  I am looking forward to traveling to other areas of PNG.  However, I am currently suffering from climbing withdrawal.  Therefore, I am putting my PNG travel plans on hold, while I making plans to go alpine climbing in New Zealand and deep water soloing in Thailand.

Regards,
Karl

Predestination

My dear readers,

The fate of this blog rests in your hands.

Due to popular pressure, I have decided to start a blog that chronicles my adventures in Papua New Guinea (PNG).  The frequency of posting will largely depend on the demand from readers and supply of interesting stories from my life in PNG.

So, if you enjoy the blog, show your support by posting comments.  If there are particular topics that you are interested in, let me know and I will try to address them in future entries.  If you do not post comments, I will assume that you are not interested in reading future entries.  Consequently, this blog will wither and die, unless you show your support. 

Regards,
Karl